Cultural studies tell us that the first three months of being in a new place makes up the ‘honeymoon’ phase. Yes, it’s true and then you go into a phase of denial and rejection. I was mentally prepared for this ‘depressive’ phase but not in the way it came about. The weather had been particularly hot and given that it had started to rain, although not a lot, there had been humidity in the air and just walking the few metres between the hotel and the office meant I arrived face and body bathed in perspiration. You feel rung out before you start and the only solution is to change.
Then you start to feel the pinch of being left out, of being left aside. There’s little inclusiveness here and in this male-dominated world, you need some sort of support mechanism to help you survive. From the VSO point of view, there are the volunteers but it doesn’t go hand-in-hand that putting a group of Westerners together, they’ll become buddies overnight. There was a Canadian girl I met in the beginning but she left a few weeks later. Then there was Georgette who, because of our work circumstances, I took a while to get to know. She’s returned to France, perhaps to return, she doesn’t know.
Circumstances being what they were, there was a guy who befriended me in the hotel who was attentive and concerned. When I moved, this same person was there to help in the final stages (I had already exhausted myself with getting the furniture assembled, cleaning the place, getting down to the market place to buy this and that to make the apartment space operable). Somehow, he managed to get away with my (second) computer (the one I was going to use at home), small electrical equipment and cords, brand new zoom camera and all my reserve money (the information I had received had said that there were no ATMs in Maroua). To add insult to injury, six days later, I notice my bank account down to zero, and I knew that this person was a professional con-man and defrauder.
A wonderful Cameroonian who is married to a Quebec girl and waiting for his Canadian visa to come through has been a great support. Then Kate came back a few days ago – she had returned to the US for a wedding. Kate’s on a Fulbright scholarship and is returning definitively in three weeks. She’s welcomed me several times at her place to use her internet connection. It’s good and I can phone out on Skype. At the office, the connection is really unreliable during the day, sometimes there is no connection, at others it is intermittent. To use Skype, I need a sustained good connection and this seems to be accessible only from early evening – good for taking to France and America, but Australia is then in the wee hours of the morning.
These events put me into a state of shock and initial trauma. I’m working my way through and beside the headaches of late, I sleep well at night. Talking to others, I have been told that theft and deception is commonplace and that if push comes to crunch, you let the intruders take what they demand rather than your life. On certain routes north of here, highway banditry is well known. Yet the people continue to live in their villages and surrounding areas. Life, for better or worse, goes on.
When a motorbike taxi driver tries to overcharge me because of the colour of my face, I tell him he is cheating me and to go away. I then take another bike at the right price. When you go down town, you slowly become aware of the higher prices that some vendors try to charge. It’s hard in the beginning and it’s quite an art to knock them down. The thing I learnt is to know someone reputable and get them to do the purchasing for you – it works well but is not always possible. There are those honorable souls, of course, and then there are a few fixed price stores (a fabric shop and the small grocery stores) but shopping is not a relaxing outing as in Australia, you have make an effort to meet the fray and always be a little on your guard.
So, I am grateful that this thief and con-man only took money and physical possessions. I am still here and able to tell the tale. You don’t go to the police because corruption is such that payments under the table would be required to undertake any and every stage of an investigation, and to what purpose? All I would wish is that the person amends his ways and learns the value of the work required to earn the money in the first place. But poverty is everywhere and gaining a quick buck becomes a ‘respectable profession’ in the eyes of the perpetrator. A pretext for a way of life that flaunts the law and puts others in fear.
Monday, July 5, 2010
Maroua, a potted history
The origins of the name of the city of Maroua can be traced to “Bi-Marva”, chief of the Guiziga people in the XVIII century. In the XVI and XVII centuries, Maroua was known by another name, that of the Guiziga chief, “Masfay” or “Matfay”. Maroua, a village in the Guiziga period, developed progressively during the Peuhl period. During the colonial period, Maroua was first ruled by the Germans (1902-1915) and then by the French (1915-1960). It is worth mentioning that after the First World War, Cameroon became a French-British protectorate under the League of Nations.
Maroua is an old urban centre dating from the first Guiziga village. Some think that the present-day pronunciation of the name Maroua comes from the Peuhl pronunciation “maruwa” of the Guiziga “marva”. The first Peuhl people came to the region in the XIX century and succeeded in ousting Bi-Marva’s successor Jomkoy who was killed in battle. In the Peuhl era, it was the first Iman and Lamido (Muslim political and religious leader), Doodibbo Hamman Damagaram, who became the true founder of the city of Maroua.
The first administrative, civil and military structures were built by the Germans. Under the French administration, the principal town artery Kakataré Avenue was widened, the main mosque was rebuilt and the central market place was established. However, just as under the German administration, the population was subjected to their new governors economically, politically and socially. After the Second World War, Maroua became the capital of the region and many of the local, non-Muslim peoples left the neighbouring plains and mountains to settle on the outskirts of the town. In 1952, the French constructed the steel “green bridge” over the Kaliao Mayo (river).
Cameroon achieved independence on 1st January 1960 as the Republic of Cameroon and on 1st October 1961, the British Southern Cameroons joined the Republic. As of this time, the country has had only two presidents: Ahmadou Ahidjo (1960-1982) and Paul Biya (1982 to present day). In the case of Maroua, independence brought many changes to the power of the Lamido, notably the establishment of an urban commune with a mayor at the head which reduced the powers of the Lamido - he would no longer have control over land. The town continued to grow particularly towards the east. Road works and drainage were carried out by the first mayor and in 1980, a second bridge, the “red bridge” was constructed over the Mayo Kalio.
When Paul Biya came to power in 1982, Maroua became the provincial capital of the Far North of Cameroon. The Renouveau (named after the then mayor) period brought changes and improvements to the city of Maroua, the first among which were the opening of the Renouveau Boulevard in 1985 which improved traffic flow, the widening of the roadway and infrastructure reorganization and restoration.
However, it wasn’t until 1992 that the roads around the market and certain main roads in the central district were sealed. There are virtually no sealed footpaths. Dust and sand blend with the roadsides the roads and the walking space is shared with workshop traders whose small area under cover leaves them no option but to work outside. Furniture makers, cobblers, plastic ware, goods and shackles all outside.
Geographical location
Maroua is the capital of the Diamaré department in the region of the Far North. It is situated between 10°35 N. and 14°20 E. The district of Maroua in 2005 covered an area of 1,453 km2. Maroua is one of the most important cities in the north of Cameroon. Its position at the northern tip of the country makes it a hub in proximity with the neighbouring countries of Tchad and Nigeria. Maroua is 1,285 kms. from the capital Yaoundé by road. The city is built at the meeting of two rivers, the Mayo Tsanhaga and the Mayo Kaliao and overall, the tree-lined main access roads are well laid out. The main roads are sealed but not well maintained (lots of potholes and jagged edges). Side streets are unmade and dusty.
The city of Maroua is located on a vast plain dominated by a mountain chain which sometimes serves as a natural division with other adjacent administrative units, especially to the north and west. The average altitude is 400 metres. To the north of the city is the Hosséré (Mt.) Maroua (722 m.) and to the south and south-west, the Hosséré (Mt.) Makabaï, Mirdjingré. The most important of the streams which traverse the city is the Mayo Tsanaga which crosses the south and south-east parts. All streams and rivers are dry in the dry season. The locals dig holes in the riverbed of the Kaliao Mayo which are used as bathing and washing holes. The riverbeds are ill-defined and water levels rise rapidly in the wet season.
Maroua has a Sahelian type climate. It is hot and dry in the dry season and milder (so they say) in the rainy season. The dry season lasts from October – May and the wet season from June – September. Rainfall is approximately 850 mm. in the south-west district and approximately 750 mm. towards the north. The wettest month is August while the months of June and July have irregular and unevenly distributed rainfalls. The average temperature is between 35o and 22o with the highest temperatures in the high 40’s in March-April and even May and the lowest temperatures in December-January. But even the locals say that the climate is hotter than before.
There are two main winds. The Harmattan blows during the dry season. It is a steady, dry wind that blows from the north to the east. It can be at times very strong and together with a dry mist, is the harbinger of colds for a lot of those living in Maroua. The Moussa is the other wind that blows from the south to the west. It is unsteady and humid and is the wind that determines the rainy season. There are virtually no winds from other directions.
Socio-economic environment
Living conditions in the city are not easy and each is out for himself. The economy of the city is characterized by both traditional and modern commercial activities. But nothing looks modern. There are some regular-type shops but most are lean-to’s or concrete walls covered over with corrugated iron. There is a large proportion of the population engaged in agricultural activities outside of the town.
There are three classes of main crops. Food-producing crops are made up of wet season sorghum and dry season sorghum, millet, corn, peanuts and white beans. Vegetables are also grown in the marshlands around the rivers – onions, tomatoes, carrots, lettuces, chile, gombo and eggplant. However, such crops are affected by irregular rainfall, climatic change and insufficient availability of land. Animal husbandry is the second economic activity in Maroua – cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, poultry, etc. However, Maroua’s demographic explosion has forced the population to spread onto pasture zones and animal corridors for agricultural purposes.
Trade is based mainly on manufactured products and agricultural products from Tchad or Nigeria, other departments or regions or from Maroua itself. The shops and grocery stores are mainly in and around the central market and sell cloth, construction materials, basic foodstuffs and personal toiletry items. There are also the informal traders - street vendors selling food, some clothing items and household wares. Imported goods are expensive so just buying cleaning products and basics such as olive oil and mustard adds up to a goodly amount.
Without a car or bike, the only option for getting around town is by “moto taxi” – motorbike taxis that literally flood the streets. Most are Chinese these days and the drivers have little respect for pedestrians trying to cross the road. It’s a question of venture out and cross when you can. Little buses (the combi-van type) travel to the villages and neighbouring departments.
Cotton was once an important crop in the area. Today, Maroua is known for its leatherwork and other hand crafted products. There are also small producers of construction materials, metalwork and joineries, building constructors, banks and bakeries (some of which make really good French baguettes and croissants).
Linguistic situation of Maroua.
Linguistic situation
There is a diverse range of languages spoken in Maroua. French and English have been the official languages of Cameroon since Independence in 1960. French is the language spoken in Maroua while English is little known. Of the numerous national languages spoken in Maroua and the twelve or so that have broadcast slots on local Cameroun radio, Fulfulde is the most widely spoken. Fulfulde was originally the language of the Peuhl people and is also used today by those of different ethnic origins. It is the vehicular language used in daily administrative and commercial activities and it is also the language used at home by many of non-Peuhl origin.
Maroua is an old urban centre dating from the first Guiziga village. Some think that the present-day pronunciation of the name Maroua comes from the Peuhl pronunciation “maruwa” of the Guiziga “marva”. The first Peuhl people came to the region in the XIX century and succeeded in ousting Bi-Marva’s successor Jomkoy who was killed in battle. In the Peuhl era, it was the first Iman and Lamido (Muslim political and religious leader), Doodibbo Hamman Damagaram, who became the true founder of the city of Maroua.
The first administrative, civil and military structures were built by the Germans. Under the French administration, the principal town artery Kakataré Avenue was widened, the main mosque was rebuilt and the central market place was established. However, just as under the German administration, the population was subjected to their new governors economically, politically and socially. After the Second World War, Maroua became the capital of the region and many of the local, non-Muslim peoples left the neighbouring plains and mountains to settle on the outskirts of the town. In 1952, the French constructed the steel “green bridge” over the Kaliao Mayo (river).
Cameroon achieved independence on 1st January 1960 as the Republic of Cameroon and on 1st October 1961, the British Southern Cameroons joined the Republic. As of this time, the country has had only two presidents: Ahmadou Ahidjo (1960-1982) and Paul Biya (1982 to present day). In the case of Maroua, independence brought many changes to the power of the Lamido, notably the establishment of an urban commune with a mayor at the head which reduced the powers of the Lamido - he would no longer have control over land. The town continued to grow particularly towards the east. Road works and drainage were carried out by the first mayor and in 1980, a second bridge, the “red bridge” was constructed over the Mayo Kalio.
When Paul Biya came to power in 1982, Maroua became the provincial capital of the Far North of Cameroon. The Renouveau (named after the then mayor) period brought changes and improvements to the city of Maroua, the first among which were the opening of the Renouveau Boulevard in 1985 which improved traffic flow, the widening of the roadway and infrastructure reorganization and restoration.
However, it wasn’t until 1992 that the roads around the market and certain main roads in the central district were sealed. There are virtually no sealed footpaths. Dust and sand blend with the roadsides the roads and the walking space is shared with workshop traders whose small area under cover leaves them no option but to work outside. Furniture makers, cobblers, plastic ware, goods and shackles all outside.
Geographical location
Maroua is the capital of the Diamaré department in the region of the Far North. It is situated between 10°35 N. and 14°20 E. The district of Maroua in 2005 covered an area of 1,453 km2. Maroua is one of the most important cities in the north of Cameroon. Its position at the northern tip of the country makes it a hub in proximity with the neighbouring countries of Tchad and Nigeria. Maroua is 1,285 kms. from the capital Yaoundé by road. The city is built at the meeting of two rivers, the Mayo Tsanhaga and the Mayo Kaliao and overall, the tree-lined main access roads are well laid out. The main roads are sealed but not well maintained (lots of potholes and jagged edges). Side streets are unmade and dusty.
The city of Maroua is located on a vast plain dominated by a mountain chain which sometimes serves as a natural division with other adjacent administrative units, especially to the north and west. The average altitude is 400 metres. To the north of the city is the Hosséré (Mt.) Maroua (722 m.) and to the south and south-west, the Hosséré (Mt.) Makabaï, Mirdjingré. The most important of the streams which traverse the city is the Mayo Tsanaga which crosses the south and south-east parts. All streams and rivers are dry in the dry season. The locals dig holes in the riverbed of the Kaliao Mayo which are used as bathing and washing holes. The riverbeds are ill-defined and water levels rise rapidly in the wet season.
Maroua has a Sahelian type climate. It is hot and dry in the dry season and milder (so they say) in the rainy season. The dry season lasts from October – May and the wet season from June – September. Rainfall is approximately 850 mm. in the south-west district and approximately 750 mm. towards the north. The wettest month is August while the months of June and July have irregular and unevenly distributed rainfalls. The average temperature is between 35o and 22o with the highest temperatures in the high 40’s in March-April and even May and the lowest temperatures in December-January. But even the locals say that the climate is hotter than before.
There are two main winds. The Harmattan blows during the dry season. It is a steady, dry wind that blows from the north to the east. It can be at times very strong and together with a dry mist, is the harbinger of colds for a lot of those living in Maroua. The Moussa is the other wind that blows from the south to the west. It is unsteady and humid and is the wind that determines the rainy season. There are virtually no winds from other directions.
Socio-economic environment
Living conditions in the city are not easy and each is out for himself. The economy of the city is characterized by both traditional and modern commercial activities. But nothing looks modern. There are some regular-type shops but most are lean-to’s or concrete walls covered over with corrugated iron. There is a large proportion of the population engaged in agricultural activities outside of the town.
There are three classes of main crops. Food-producing crops are made up of wet season sorghum and dry season sorghum, millet, corn, peanuts and white beans. Vegetables are also grown in the marshlands around the rivers – onions, tomatoes, carrots, lettuces, chile, gombo and eggplant. However, such crops are affected by irregular rainfall, climatic change and insufficient availability of land. Animal husbandry is the second economic activity in Maroua – cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, poultry, etc. However, Maroua’s demographic explosion has forced the population to spread onto pasture zones and animal corridors for agricultural purposes.
Trade is based mainly on manufactured products and agricultural products from Tchad or Nigeria, other departments or regions or from Maroua itself. The shops and grocery stores are mainly in and around the central market and sell cloth, construction materials, basic foodstuffs and personal toiletry items. There are also the informal traders - street vendors selling food, some clothing items and household wares. Imported goods are expensive so just buying cleaning products and basics such as olive oil and mustard adds up to a goodly amount.
Without a car or bike, the only option for getting around town is by “moto taxi” – motorbike taxis that literally flood the streets. Most are Chinese these days and the drivers have little respect for pedestrians trying to cross the road. It’s a question of venture out and cross when you can. Little buses (the combi-van type) travel to the villages and neighbouring departments.
Cotton was once an important crop in the area. Today, Maroua is known for its leatherwork and other hand crafted products. There are also small producers of construction materials, metalwork and joineries, building constructors, banks and bakeries (some of which make really good French baguettes and croissants).
Linguistic situation of Maroua.
Linguistic situation
There is a diverse range of languages spoken in Maroua. French and English have been the official languages of Cameroon since Independence in 1960. French is the language spoken in Maroua while English is little known. Of the numerous national languages spoken in Maroua and the twelve or so that have broadcast slots on local Cameroun radio, Fulfulde is the most widely spoken. Fulfulde was originally the language of the Peuhl people and is also used today by those of different ethnic origins. It is the vehicular language used in daily administrative and commercial activities and it is also the language used at home by many of non-Peuhl origin.
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